Shared from the 8/2/2019 San Antonio Express eEdition

JUST A TASTE

Mr. Juicy

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Photos by Paul Stephen / Staff

The double cheeseburger with bacon is served on an impressive, scratch-baked poppyseed challah bun.

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Caramel and strawberry milkshakes are flavorful.

Vital info

Location: 3910 McCullough Ave., 210-994-9838

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Depending on demand, Mr. Juicy may open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays as well.

Note: This is a Just a Taste review, which the Express-News does soon after a restaurant or bar opens to give our first impressions.

As far as slogans go, “home of the wet burger” has about as much appetizing appeal as “your spot for the soggiest dogs” or “the palace of damp pizza.”

Until you know what it means, that is.

Wet, in Andrew Weissman’s world, means peppery au poivre sauce, strained to silken perfection, and ladled over a hamburger. Really. That one sauce.

It’s the signature sauce that can be added to any burger at his new Mr. Juicy, which opened in June in the former home of Weissman’s Moshe’s Golden Falafel, and it is truly inspired.

Mr. Juicy is a stripped-down burger joint, almost alarmingly bare-bones in its simplicity. But it’s one of the tastiest things to happen in the Olmos Park area since, well, Weissman opened Moshe’s in 2015.

On the menu: You can order a hamburger ($4), a cheeseburger ($5) or a double patty, double cheese burger ($6). Add bacon for $2 or make it wet for $1. Fries ($3) and shakes ($4) come on the side. Soft drinks aside, that’s the entirety of the Mr. Juicy bill of fare.

The beef patties were, as advertised, juicy. They were also well seasoned and sported a nice crusty char. Those patties were stacked on an impressive, scratch-baked poppyseed challah bun, which successfully navigated the rocky terrain of staying tender without crumbling under all that beef.

As for toppings, the bacon was cut thick and layered on generously. Cheese was of the appropriate gooey American variety. Lettuce and tomato were fresh and crisp.

The burgers are served on a small baking sheet lined with heavy waxed paper. The sauce was poured atop the patty, but under the bun, and it spilled out across the paper. There were plenty of access points to pick up the bun without getting soaked wrist-deep in au poivre, and it was easy enough to give the burger a dip in the overflow before each bite.

Weissman knows fries, as already well established at his River Walk-adjacent property The Luxury. They get the same twice-fried treatment at Mr. Juicy and arrive sizzling hot and full of crunch. They’re some of the best fries you’ll find in San Antonio.

The shakes are smooth and flavorful — the house-made caramel option is particularly enjoyable — that don’t overwhelm with sweetness. Weissman explained they’re a nostalgic nod to the former Olmos Pharmacy and he serves them in the mixing tin along with a cup with a dollop of freshly whipped Chantilly cream in the bottom.

From white tablecloths to greasy napkins, Weissman’s restaurants have fed San Antonio at every point on the dining spectrum for decades. Mr. Juicy fits right into that legacy despite its small menu with quality food, attentive service and just enough swagger to be memorable. pstephen@express-news.net | Twitter: @pjbites | Instagram: @pjstephen

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